I have been using this technique now for over ten years and I have finally decided to share what I have learned. The technique is known as ‘sweating’ and is used extensively in arboretorial circles. I use for the following species: Cratageus, Prunus, and most of the Rosaceae family, do not use on evergreen species.
I collect trees with as much root as possible, but I have put roots on trees that have not had any.
Follow this procedure and your success rate in establishing your freshly collected yamadori will improve immeasurably.
- Collect as much root as possible
- Clear as much mountain soil but do not wash the roots
- Use the soil mix as shown below
- Clean cut the major roots as close to the trunk without spoiling the nebari
- Place the tree in the smallest container possible
- Ensure that the tree is well packed in the container
- Wire the tree securely in the pot
- Make sure that the cut branches are clean and NOT SEALED
- Saturate the soil
- Pile fresh sphagnum moss on the surface of the container
- Wrap the whole tree in a VERY large black plastic bag
- Place in a sunny position as the tree MUST GET HOT
- Humidity in the bag must be high at all times, mist spray daily
- After two or three weeks new buds will appear particularly around the cuts
- Ensure that they do not touch the sides of the bag.
- When the new shoots reach 5cm or 2” remove from the bag and protect from cold and wind, mist spray daily and keep out of direct sunlight.
- Keep watch for the new shoots hardening off, then you can feed with a very diluted solution; do not work the tree for the first 12 months.
Good luck, please do not copy these photos or the text, and share the link freely.
Hi Tony
How might we adapt that technique for evergreen yamadori, especially collected in Summer?
Thanks
Chris
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this is not possible
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Hey that sounds really promising and I will try it.
One question, how important is brightness? The fact that it shall be black bags is somehow strange for me
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This article is very short on details. The ideal black bag is a thin cheap one that lets some light through.
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Hi Peter, so much depends on your local conditions. humidity is the key to success.
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Hi Tony, I’m Vincenzo and I’m writing to you from Italy, thank you for sharing this very interesting technique … I wanted to ask you in what period can a beech and a hawthorn be harvested? should the transparent bag be placed after the black bag? after how long can fertilizer be applied?
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now is the perfect time to collect, the bag must completely cover the tree, watch the videos on Youtube on my channel
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now is the right time to harvest hawthorn or beech?
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right up to when the burst the first buds
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Hi Tony,
Shay from Israel (:
Long time no see…
I wanted to ask, is there a known biological reason for this behavior of the tree in dark hot and humid environment?
Hope to see you soon!
Thanks 😊
Shay
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Hi Shay, its an known technique, the plant is forced into growing. In the UK we do this with rhubarb.
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Thanks Tony.
I have a few Wisteria branches in a black bag now. They respond well to that as well.
Cheers,
Shay
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Thanks for sharing this technique. I am a bit confused about how hot is “too hot” inside the black bag? Is 23 – 25 degrees Celsius too hot for trees inside the bags?
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Hi Igor, so long as the tree has high humidity 25-30 degrees is fine, in fact is preferred.
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Never tried this, thanks, will give it a go
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I see you recommend not using the technique on evergreen. What about yew?
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only on deciduous trees, definitely NOT yews
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i suppose you use this method with large privets as Tony?
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not used on privets, not sure it would work
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Hi Tony,
Have you ever tried the black bag technique on prunus amygdalus or dulcis please? It os effective ?
Thanks 🙂
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Hi Lucas, any Prunus variety will benefit the Black bag technique.
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Thanks Tony 🙂
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Hi Tony,
My before message:
” I have lots of question. Sorry i’m french, i speak bad english.
I want to do a yamadori of Ulmus campestris
– Can I do the yamadori for the month of March or april with black plastic bag? If yes, then I put the black bag in full sun outside, half shade, shade or in a cellar?
– Can i use this technical on ulmus?
– The ulmus that I want to take is in a stone wall, Can this technique work for an elm without rootlets?
Thank you man.”
I used your technical for two Ulmus this year and it’s 100% successfull.
But your technique has failed for a big oak and a maple of montpellier =( . When the new shoots reached 5cm, i remove from the bag and protect from cold and wind, mist spray daily and keep out of direct sunlight. But 2 mouth later the leaves of oak and maple have dried… When i scraped the bark, there wasn’t green, i remove trees from the pot and no roots have pushed…
Why do you think my tests are unsuccessfull ?
Should I put my trees in a transparent bag or a greenhouse after the black bag?
Thanks Tony 🙂
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Hi Lucas, Oak are not easy and Maples too. I have not used the black bag on these species.
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ok thanks. What would be the best season to collect oak and maples?
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springtime
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hi Tony. when u move yamadori out of clear bag? will u let it the whole year till next spring
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Hi Tony,
Thanx for writing about this great technique, I am using it second year now and it is working prefectly, I manage to put roots on a rootless yamadori hawthorn with trunk girth of about 15cm. Helped on many more trees too I believe and I put every yamadori in a bag since then. I am praising it everywhere I go with a reference to you and this article.
Only negative thing I noticed so far is mold buildig up on some trees, but it looks like it doesn´t come back after I brush it off with a toothbrush.
One question – at the moment I have a garden yamadori japanese maple collected a month ago, trunk diameter about 18cm – it is producing quite strong odour in the bag – is is ok to use this technique for it too? I am also worried about maple´s liability to catch various fungal diseases….which coul be aided by this wet environment…do my worries make sense?
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Hi Mimo, I am happy that this is working well for you. I do not have any Maples so I cannot comment on the aspect of their response.
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Mold should not build up if the bag gets very hot.
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Thanx for the responses Tony.
We have got few cold days in the last 2 weeks so thats why probably there was mold , bags didn´t get warm enough.
Today it ´s just 3°C again so I expect it to build up again.
As long as it don´t hurt the trees I don´t mind brushing it off.
Anyways, it´s like christmas for me everytime I open the bags and see buds appearíng all over the trunks on more and more trees now after a month in bags, even on a big ones with some 20cm diameter trunks that my local bonsaists would be preparing tree years for collection 🙂 Very handy technique.
All the best from your slovakian follower 🙂
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Hi Milan , great to hear from you.
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If you have a email adress i can send you a photo of this ulmus
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use the contact form
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Hi Tony,
I have lots of question. Sorry i’m french, i speak bad english.
I want to do a yamadori of Ulmus campestris
– Can I do the yamadori for the month of March or april with black plastic bag? If yes, then I put the black bag in full sun outside, half shade, shade or in a cellar?
– Can i use this technical on ulmus?
– The ulmus that I want to take is in a stone wall, Can this technique work for an elm without rootlets?
Thank you man.
Lucas
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hi Lucas, it should work with Ulmus, put the bag in full sun. Try and collect as much root as you can. NOW is a great time to collect.
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hello Tony,
I’ve collected a Hawthorn and treated the way you advised: in a big black plastic bag, spraying daily. I’ve placed it in the livingroom, in front of the heater. Now, a month after digging, the tree has new shoots, lenght between 1 and 8 cm.
So now i think its time for point 16: When the new shoots reach 5cm or 2” remove from the bag and protect from cold and wind, mist spray daily and keep out of direct sunlight…. proctection from cold, does that mean: keep it frostfree, but place outside? Or what is the best i can do now? I think this is a tricky moment…
Many thanks!
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Place a clear bag over the top of the whole tree, do not ket the new shoots touch the sides of the bag, they will wilt and die. do not let the tree go below 7ºC
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Great tips! My trick is vitamin B-1. It reduces transplant shock which is generally about 2 weeks, but can be even less with B-1. I’ve seen new growth in a little over a week. We don’t typically have to worry about humidity domes where I live in Oregon.
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According to this, vitamin B-1 for transplant shock is a myth.
http://www.colostate.edu/Dept/CoopExt/4dmg/Garden/beware.htm
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Hi, great work Tony, I have a collected semi cascade Blackthorn, have a few questions… does the bag need to be air tight or should there be holes pricked in the bag?
I’m considering bagging the bottom half of my tree to gain some sacrifice branches and nebari…
Justin
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Hi Justin, airtight, sprayed daily.
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Hi Tony
i dig up an old sea-buckthorn with deadwood and a hollow tree in february, and placed it in a container as you decribed here above. The three had hardly no roots. I places the tree inside the house with good light, in a big plastic box i made for the three. Every day i spray the tree, so the enviroment is always damp. within two weeks buds began to sprout. Now the the shoots are around 5 cm. Last week i remove the box, but the three was not happy with it: The leaves began to dry out. So now the plastic box is over it again. I give the tree superthrive for several times.
What is the best i can do now? Hope that you can give me some tips to give the tree alive and kickin
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It’s all about heat and humidity… If the shoots are strong put the whole tree in a clear plastic bag. Make sure the new shoots do not touch the sides of the bag… Make a wire frame and put the bag over that… Seal the bottom… Spray regularly
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Hi Tony,
Can I use this method of sweating on an old Azalea I collected from the garden of a house Demolition?
Also…is it a good idea to remove all the field soil and replace it with a pumice and sea soil mix or to leave some of the field soil close to the trunk and remove the rest in the second transplanting?
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Change the soil for sure but the black bag technique may not be suitable for Azaleas
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Thanks for publishing this method. A few of questions.
1. Can the trees be placed inside the house with central heating instead of outside in the sun?
2. Why is misting necessary? Surely if there’s water in the pot already and the bag is kept warm enough then it will keep very humid all by itself by evaporation. No water can leave the sealed bag.
3. Do you add mycorrhizal fungi / Q4 when potting or do you just rely on there being some left in the small amount of soil left on the roots?
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Yes to all of these. I mist because the trees do dry out when they get hot
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Hi Tony, would you use this technique on latch? If not what would you suggest?
Cheers
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Hi Lestyn, NOT suitable for larch… But they root easily anyway.
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Hello , thanks for sharing this interesting technique. Do you collect the trees just bevore new buds starts to grow in spring?
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Hi Daniel it’s all in the words
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The post doesn’t seem to mention anything about time of collection.
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Depends on where you live, in the UK it’s right now! Just as the buds are bursting
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Reblogged this on Wolf's Birding and Bonsai Blog.
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Pingback: Improving the success rate of Yamadori | Bonsai & Yamadori from Tony Tickle | Wolf's Birding and Bonsai Blog
Have you tried bagging just the pot ? Looking forward to trying with English Elm in the southern Winter/Spring .
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It has to be the whole tree
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Would this also work for european Oak?
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Perfect of Oaks
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Thanks mr. Tickle. Do you sometimes use your heating bed in this situation? Thanks for a new tool in my toolbox!!
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Hi Dirk, I do use the heating bed if the weather gets below -10c
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Thanks for the answer
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Reblogged this on Bindi Bonsai.
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Tony, I find this quite incredible and fascinating. Have you done an experiment to see a comparison of using a clear bag with partial sun vs. black bag and full sun? Is the time of year of significance?
I find the technique fascinating.
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Hi Jerry, the tree needs to be in the dark
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What are bims?
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It’s a soil mixture harder than pumice
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Thanks. I couldn’t find the meaning on line in the British dictionaries.
Fred
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So do you open the bag daily to mist?
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Every day… takes ages when you have 80 bags to open and close!
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Thanks, i’ve never seen this technique before, great to know!
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Reblogged this on Bonsai Eejit.
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I tried this almost exact process last year based on rumors it was being done in Europe( probably you). I had similar success with a large old Ostrya (hop-Hornbeam). My soil mix was 1/2″ Perlite and pumice with 15% chopped sphagnum. It is exciting process to use with our hard budding horn-beams and hawthorns.
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