I am very pleased to see these new buds appearing on some of the Yamadori Scots Pines, I removed the end buds in November last year and this forces the energy in the tree to push out onto old wood. I left one branch with the end buds on to see the reaction: New buds have appeared but they are weaker and less frequent along the branch. Last year I fed the tree with Tibolar and the tree was very strong enabling me to do this work. NO needles were removed prior to this technique.
New buds on old wood
So Many new buds
End bud removed in November the previous year
This is the branch where the end bud was retained
Bonsai & Yamadori from Tony Tickle 
Hi Tony does this technique work on Jwp ?
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Hi Richard, I cannot say really as I only work with native European trees. Sorry I cannot help.
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Reblogged this on Wolf's Birding and Bonsai Blog.
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Hi Tony. Please, can you explain, why did you do this work in November and not in the end of July (when spring shoots matured with new buds on the end of shoot for next season are visible?) What are differences between doing this job during summer and doing it at the end of groving season?
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Hi Martin, The tree was collected two years ago and I wanted the tree to be strong before I removed the buds. You can see where the bud was retained in the last photo. The buds behind it a very small, I guess they will mature through this year… only slower than the others.
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Great info! This seem like a less stressfull method compared to removing the (new) mature extention in july as I use to do. Have you tried both methods? Would you like to share your thoughts and experience of different ways to encourage back budding on sylvestris pines?
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I have used lots of techniques but this works well. The bottom line is the tree MUST be strong and well fertilised the previous year. I use Tibolar-RS (the link is in the post)
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There’s a bud with long legs on the trunk. 😉
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Do you mean the spider … hahahaahah
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